Kim Jones was inspired by Kyoto, Paris and Rome for Fendi’s Couture AW22 collection

Kyoto and Paris were the main inspirations for Fendi’s Couture AW22/23 collection. Rome was too, but not as much. At the Palais Brongniart de Bourse, in the heart of Paris, Kim Jones, the artistic director of Couture and Feminine unveiled a collection that focuses on fragments from different cities.

“This season I wanted to get away from Rome, or at least I wanted to put Rome in a global context,” Jones explains in notes. The three cities have things in common. Paris is where Japanism was founded and a place to draw Western art, Rome is the headquarters of Fendi, and Kyoto is where the 18e kimonos of the century. Approaching the collection as a palimpsest where fragments and iterations of the past compose the present, Jones looked to the future to create minimal pieces.

And although minimal, they were no less expensive in materials. “In this collection, we look at fragments from different cities, namely Kyoto, Paris and Rome. The fragmentary nature of things finds an echo throughout the collection, like snippets of memory or the impression of things past, present and future.

A vicuna trouser suit and a long sleeved dress in the same shade of brown are among the first looks. Long asymmetrical dresses with patchwork inspired by kimonos, and made in the same fabric of kimonos were seen throughout the collection. Kata Yuzen is an age-old technique used for hand printing and painting. This technique was applied to the dresses in the collection, made in Kyoto on silk panels and reformed asymmetrically for the dresses seen in the collection.

“Parallels are drawn between the East and the West, the masculine and the feminine, the natural and the artificial, tradition and modernity, throughout the Autumn-Winter. The Kata Yuzen the dresses echo and find their continental counterpart in the sinuous, shimmering crystal cages that further reflect the architectonic spirit of Paris in their construction and craftsmanship, but ultimately frame and yield to the body,” the house states.

Delving into the archives, Jones took inspiration from the creative director before him, Karl Lagerfeld and used eau-de-nil chiffon on the back of the silver dresses. According to Vogue Runway, Lagerfeld ordered the samples they were made from. Long, sheer pieces create an artistic silhouette that’s couture in every sense of the word from all hours of tailoring.

A collection light in palette with a touch of embroidery, which is shimmering while being multi-culti. Shimmer has been trending this Couture week and on the final day Jones made a shimmering statement with her collection.

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